Week 7:

Projects / Practitioners of Interest:

  • Deb Cumming & Holly McQuillan, Zero (waste) + One (Piece)
    https://debcumming.design/zero-one

    I really loved looking at this project because it combines zero waste principles with clothing that you would never know was ‘zero waste’ at first glance. Although these pieces are really oversized, I like how the wearer still has the ability to move comfortably in the interior of each piece, and feel that added sense of security. The gauze coat is my favourite aesthetically, and the reverse coat is beyond clever! The embroidered eyelets are a really cool touch, considering that some eyelets, (particularly in fast fashion) are plastic, and usually can’t be taken out without leaving a mark. The embroidery would be less permanent and easier to remove, if repurposing the fabric for something else later on in its life cycle! 

    Go Deb!!!!

  • Holly McQuillan – Beauty, Mathematics, Patterns
    https://hollymcquillan.com/author/hollymcquillan/page/5/

    Holly’s technique of tessellating the various pieces of one whole fabric piece is incredible. It’s amazing seeing the 2D pattern in comparison to the 3D garment on form. I wonder what other shapes and manipulations can be done to achieve a zero waste outcome in other garment styles. 

  • Julian Roberts
    https://subtractioncutting.tumblr.com

    I really like the idea and method behind Julian Roberts’ subtraction cutting method, however the aesthetic is not my cup of tea. I wonder whether Roberts’ approach could be transformed into something more aesthetically pleasing…

  • Rickard Lindqvist
    https://shop.atacac.com/collections/sharewear
    https://www.academia.edu/11973607/Kinetic_Garment_Construction_-_Remarks_on_the_Foundations_of_Pattern_Cutting

    Rickard Lindqvist is unreal! His use of digital software and his role in open source fashion is brilliant. The first time I was really made aware of open source design was last year when I used the Fab-Lab briefly for the Fashion Textiles paper. I think it is a great way to encourage creativity, and be more orientated to community over profit. I think when someone like Lindqvist works the way that they do, there is a higher value created, and donating to download his share-wear is one way of honouring the work that is put into his creations. His designs are so carefully calculated and from the brief reading I have done from “Kinetic Garment Construction” I am in awe of how much detail and precision goes into every garment he creates and the rich history of drape in garment construction.

  • Madame Vionnet
    https://agnautacouture.com/2013/05/12/madeleine-vionnet-master-in-manipulating-fabric/

    Reading about Madame Vionnet’s life and how she came to discover the benefits of draping using a bias cut is fascinating. She remains to be an icon, and looking at her work you can see where her influence has extended far beyond her time. I really love how she didn’t follow any super hard and fast rules, the fabric was her guiding principle. I think because now there’s no way to be 100% original, it can be easy to get caught up in what we are taught to do, or our own habits. I think Vionnet’s method of going back to basics is something I need to really learn from!

 

My Personal Interests / Ideas / Thoughts:

  • Sustainable Design Practice
  • Embracing new technology
  • Diversity & Inclusive Design
  • Using personal inspiration or wider community / global issues to create things that are meaningful.
  • Finding a way to combine my aesthetic with the values above ^ Sustainable, inclusive design doesn’t have to be ugly… What if there was even a way to design a mini collection that acts, as a jigsaw and is zero waste in that way…

 

Summary:

This week I am kind of stuck with what direction to go in. There are so many different ways to go about this second brief so I think I’ll go back and talk to Deb and Nina next week about their thoughts on what would be the best approach for me with this project.

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